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Tasting Notes for Clos de la Roche - Arlaud, 2005:
The 2005 Clos de la Roche —assembled and resting in tank — offers aromas of black tea, orange zest, lilies, and blackberry, saturates the palate impressively with black cherry and cassis, and finishes with admirable depth of sweet fruit and sheer length, though with considerable tannin. Like the Combottes, this looks to need some time in bottle, but I would re-assess it in 5-7 years.
Wine Advocate # 170 Apr 2007
Parker Points: 91-92
Drinking Period: -
Tasting Notes for Echezeaux, Magnums - Lamarche, Francois, 2000:
Clive Coates has written: 'Things have been steadily improving here since 1993. The domaine had declined in the later years of Henri Lamarche, who died aged 93 in 1985, and then took some time to get moving again. This is now once again a starry domaine. Good colour. Distinguished fruit on the nose. Medium-full body. Very good acidity. This is a little raw at present. But there is fine quality here. Nicely austere. Classy. From 2008.
Parker Points: -
Drinking Period: -
Tasting Notes for Gevrey Chambertin Clos St Jacques - Esmonin, Sylvie, 2005:
The Esmonin 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St-Jacques — unsurprisingly, incorporating virtually 100% whole cluster and new wood — bursts from the glass with scents of soy, aromatic woods, ripe black fruits, resin, rose, iris, violets, and roasted meats. Not at all effusively fruity or showy on entry, this nevertheless totally saturates the palate with fresh essence of blackberry and cherry, along with smoked and roasted meats, soy and stone, licorice and herbs. Quite tannic and palpably dense in the mouth, it displays a much sterner, less winsome personality than the Gevrey V.V. — but what a personality it has! In a remarkable finishing act, the tannins then seem to melt away, the wine grabs your palate, showering it with flowers and herbs, slathering it with black fruits and animal fat, dashing it against stones, reviving it with mineral salts, and leaving it exhilarated but utterly wrung-out. Esmonin doesn’t think her 2005s will ever Ŕshut downő. But this one might just tell you to shut up: I suspect it will continue to control the agenda if opened any time over the next 12-15 years. (The strikingly floral, salty, savory, dynamic 2004 is gorgeous — if not in the same exalted league as this ‘05 — and well worth cellaring mid-term.)
Sylvie Esmonin is a staunch believer in the use of whole clusters with stems (Ŕthe method of my grandfather’s dayő) to enhance florality, fruit and structure, which presupposes late harvest. But she claims that this method of vinification itself helps moderate the efficiency of alcoholic conversion. In any event, levels of alcohol were the last thing noticeable as I was wowed by this year’s collection which, as usual, she planned not to begin bottling any earlier than April.
Wine Advocate # 171 Jun 2007
Parker Points: 96-97
Drinking Period: -
Tasting Notes for Grands Echezeaux ( repack - lovely condition ) - DRC, 1988:
I have been telling people for years that this domaine's "best buy," if such a label can be applied here, is the Grands Echezeaux. While it is not Romanee-Conti or La Tache, it often comes very close to those two titans, at a fraction of the price. In 1988, it is fabulous. In fact, my unedited tasting notes had the words "fabulous" in them twice and "awesome" once. It is decadently rich and spicy with an extraordinary perfume of violets, gamey, plum-like fruit, toasty new oak, and a finish that must last several minutes. It, like the Echezeaux, should not be consumed for at least 5 years, and should easily last until 2010 or longer.
The prices for the wines of the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti may be exorbitant but the quality of the wines produced in the eighties is truly remarkable. The 1988s are celestial wines selling at stratospheric prices. The 1988 production was twice what it was in 1987, but the same as in 1985. The 1988s are fuller-bodied, deeper, more concentrated wines than the superb 1987s, and will need some time in the cellar to shed their generous amounts of tannin. The only vintage they can be favorably compared with is the 1985 vintage, and the 1985s were a great deal more forward and flattering to taste when young. There is more depth in the 1988s than in the 1986s or even the superb 1980s (which turned out to be the finest wines made in that underrated vintage).
Burgundy Book # B2 Jan 1990
Parker Points: 95
Drinking Period: 1995-2010