2008 - Ornellaia, Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, Bolgheri

A muscular Ornellaia at 15 years old, filled with toasted and grilled cedar and sandalwood notes. Powerful and vibrant, with black cherry and blackcurrant fruits, edged with liqourice, balsamic, spice and fennel, delivering plenty of umami texture and character. Even now I would suggest that it can benefit from a little longer in bottle, or ensure a good long carafe. This was the year that Olga Fusari joined the team fully as winemaker, working alongside Axel Heinz. Harvest September 2 to October 7, after a growing season with a cool and rainy spring, then intense heat over the summer. 70% new oak.

The 2008 Ornellaia continues to blossom in the bottle. Dark cherries, chocolate, espresso, blackberries and mocha are just some of the many notes that explode from the glass. A rich tapestry of licorice, tar and camphor notes develop in the glass, adding considerable complexity. The 2008 is a huge, structured Ornellaia endowed with massive structure. It has come together beautifully since the early days when it was a tannic beast. Readers who can be patient will be rewarded with a spectacular bottle of wine. This is a fabulous showing.