1985 - Cheval Blanc, Saint-Emilion

It has been several years since I last tasted the 1985 Cheval Blanc. When this was poured, a guest enquired whether I liked it, to which I replied: “It’s Cheval Blanc…It’s 1985…Of course!” Now, approaching four decades old, I suspect the 1985 will not improve further, except in a larger format. This bottle shows minor degradation in color on the rim, just light bricking. The bouquet bursts from the glass: dark berry compote, iron filings, shavings of black truffle and brown leaves, becoming more savory as it blossoms in the glass. There’s real depth to the aromatics, which are irresistible. The palate has recently dispensed with some of its backbone as the tannins polymerize, rendering it a tad looser knit than prior examples. Ferrous red fruit, hints of soy, dried fig and just the faintest brush of curry leaf on the finish. This is “old school” Saint-Émilion in all its glory. There’s no excuse not to crack open a bottle in your cellar if you are lucky enough to have one.

The 1985 Cheval Blanc has a medium garnet-brick color. It strides confidently out of the glass with mature notes of cigar box, plum pudding, dried figs, and dusty soil, followed by fragrant wafts of jasmine tea and potpourri. The medium-bodied palate offers compelling tension and loads of exotic spice sparks amongst the dried red and black berry layers, textured by soft, powdery tannins, finishing with a persistent minerally whisper.