2006 - Masseto, Toscana

The wine that most delighted me at this historic tasting of Tuscany's most iconic wines was the 2006 Masseto. This is a wine of sheer power, bliss, opulence, infinity and sublime seduction. This Merlot-based masterpiece hits all your senses with the grace of a ballerina and the power of a heavyweight. It is steady on its proverbial feet, but it also glides over the palate with a profound sense of elegance, harmony and rhythm. Among the prized vintages of Masseto, including 2001, 2004 and 2007, this edition is my favorite. The wine delivers an extra sense of tightness or firmness at the back that serves to stitch together its fleshy richness and general sumptuousness. The personality is sunny, expansive, articulate and sophisticated. You'll remember that the 2006 vintage is celebrated for the elegance of its wines. In the coastal Bolgheri appellation, it is also remembered for the power of its wines. You get the best of both worlds with this stunning creation: elegance and power. These traits are particularly well suited to the versatile grape variety at the heart of this Tuscan all-rounder. This is a true Renaissance wine.

I remember the first time I tasted the 2006 Masseto. It's that kind of wine. The 2006 is every bit as magnificent today. Dense, richly-textured and potent to its core, the 2006 is a wine for readers who can be patient. I love the brooding intensity and sense of gravitas the 2006 conveys. Tonight, it is stellar, but still so young.

An extremely dry year with almost no rain at all - just 4mm from mid-April to mid-September. Temperatures were not excessively high, but this still mean ripening took a long time - even more so because they waited for sudden storms in September to pass before harvesting. This gives a rich opulent character to the wine, set against black pepper and cinammon spices, and a touch of welcome bitterness to the tannins on the finish that tames the creamy, generous fruits. At 15 years old, you can start to really see the classicism and grace of Masseto that is overtaken when young by the flamboyant density of the fruit. Here touches of undergrowth and dried herbs come in, and the gentle acidities give a welcome balance to the spice. 100% new oak.

Winemaker Marco Balsimelli loves this relatively generous vintage.Blackish crimson. Intense nose. Lifted and fresh with really beautiful balance. Good acidity and some real freshness. Round and graceful now. Structured but with perfect fruit, too. Well evolved but with no excess maturity. Lightly pruney end but it’s still a delight. More concentrated than the 1996 … (JR)