1988 - Lynch-Bages, Pauillac

Impressively youthful at 36 years old, fully delivering on the brief for Pauillac classifieds to be long ageing. The tannins are fully melted into the fruit structure, but still in evidence, giving shape and definition to the brambled autumnal fruit, layered with tobacco, smoked earth and pencil lead, with a cushion of mint leaf running underneath. Jean-Michel Cazes had been in charge since 1973, and by this point had transformed Lynch Bages into one of the wines of the appellation, beginning to rise above its 5th Growth ranking. The 2000 vintage took its time to come around, but is now at a great time to drink, even if there are still decades ahead of it. 70% new oak, Daniel Llhose winemaker.

The 1988 Lynch Bages has a slightly more intense nose than the previous bottle six years ago, mainly black fruit mixed with subtle pencil shaving and chimney soot scents, a little Saint-Julien in style. After a few minutes, there's a touch of all sorts and fish scale. Certainly, it is less flamboyant than either the 1989 or 1990. The palate is now fully mature with pliant tannins and black fruit commingling with meat juices and licorice. It's a little sweeter than expected for a 1988 Left Bank on the finish. Overall, this is perfect to drink now. Tasted at the 1988 Bordeaux dinner at Noble Rot Mayfair.