2015 - Saarburger Rausch Riesling GG, Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken

At 12.5 percent alcohol, this selection from old vines is significantly fuller-bodied than its 2014 counterpart, an amplitude that underscores a vivid sense of extract and stony, smoky mineral suffusion. But for all of its stuffing and textural richness, this bottling is dominated by brightly, infectiously juicy white peach and grapefruit. A pungent savor reminiscent of crab-shell reduction adds mouthwatering appeal, while an astonishingly resonant and gripping finish introduces the piquancy, bite and glow of grapefruit peel, peach kernel and black peppercorn. I had my doubts when the Zillikens launched Grosse Gewächse in 2009, but they have certainly mastered the art of rendering rich, profound dry Riesling.