2009 - Beausejour Duffau-Lagarrosse, Saint-Emilion

A blend of 77% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2009 Beausejour Duffau-Lagarrosse has a deep garnet color. It storms out of the glass with powerful notes of baked plums, boysenberry preserves, and licorice, giving way to nuances of black truffles, candied violets, and mossy tree bark, with a fragrant touch of sandalwood. The full-bodied palate is rich and impactful, delivering perfumed black fruits with a firm frame of velvety tannins and seamless freshness, finishing long and opulent. A gorgeous wine.

Subdued on the opening notes, wrapped in dark pepper spice, capsicum, fennel, incense and crayon. A sweeter, richer black cherry fruit emerges after good 15 minutes of opening, and the shape evolves in the glass, showing greater delicacy and nuance as the limestone soils give lift and texture. This was the vintage that Nicolas Thienpont and Stéphane Derenoncourt arrived at the estate, and began to shake things up.

The 2009 Beauséjour Héritiers Duffau-Lagarrosse has been eulogized elsewhere, but returning to this vintage after four years, it's a very good Saint-Émilion rather than a great one. It has a typically ripe and exotic bouquet with a heavy carapace of new oak that doesn't feel completely welded to the fruit. Certainly, there is immense concentration, which will appeal if that's your metric. The palate is intense and structured with layered black fruit, high-toned but lacking complexity. It has a hedonistic allure, and there is a fine grip, notwithstanding that it develops more nuance in the glass. Maybe give it another four to five years? Tasted at the Lia's Wings/book dinner at Medlar restaurant.