2016 - Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac

The grilled cedar and campfire smoke settles in over the opening moments, and this radiates a generosity and glamour that not all the top 2016s are showing right now. Very much on the dark autumnal fruits, with expertly-judged estate and vintage signature, adding up to a hugely successful wine. Fresh pomegranate and orange peel acidities punctuate the bilberry, damson and cassis fruits on the palate, impressive grip and a ton of unfurling conversation still in front of it. 100% new oak, Philippe Dhalluin director.

A blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot, the 2016 Mouton Rothschild has a pH of 3.62 and a very deep purple black color. It is very closed to begin, requiring a lot of swirling to unleash a powerful wall of crème de cassis, juicy black plums, and scents of boysenberries, followed by nuances of star anise, incense, violets, crushed rocks, and camphor, plus emerging iron ore and rose oil hints. The medium to full-bodied palate is densely packed with layer upon layer of black fruit preserves and perfumed floral and exotic spice accents, framed by beautifully ripe, plush tannins and seamless freshness, finishing with an epically long fruit and mineral firework display. Gorgeous!

The 2016 Mouton-Rothschild has an understated bouquet at first, featuring scents of blackberry, bilberry and traces of kelp and brine. Wonderful delineation here, and it builds in intensity with a few swirls of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity, a velvety-smooth texture and an elegant, utterly beguiling finish that flirts with perfection. Astonishing. Kudos to Philippe Dhalluin, who will be retiring from his position at the end of the year. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting.