1989 - Cheval Blanc, Saint-Emilion

A legendary year where Cheval was among wines of the vintage Still full of life even if the tertiary notes are domiant, with truffled spice, tobacco, cocoa and cinammon, touches of saffron and raspberry puree but with an incredible freshness on the finish for a wine that is now 32 years old. The tannins are so finely spun at this point that you barely get any resistance from them, and yet a gentle power and sense of confidence is still unmissable. Generous and so moreish. Overall it was a great Pomerol year and Cheval is famously located right next door to this appellation and on similar soils - you can look to Trotanoy and Petrus for other wines from this vintage that are knocking it out of the park right now. Rainfall was 25% below average for the region, but the yield was up at an extremely generous 50hl/h.

The 1989 Cheval Blanc has a savory bouquet with red fruit, black truffle shavings, Montecristo cigars and brown spices - very vibrant and focused. There is a tangible sense of energy here. The palate is medium-bodied, with grainy tannins and brown spices infusing the black fruit. Clove and more red fruit surface towards the finish, with hints of leather and mocha on the aftertaste. This Saint-Émilion seems to "grow" in the glass and leaves you wanting more, so don't be afraid to decant this. Excellent. Tasted at the 1989 Bordeaux dinner at 67 Pall Mall.

A blend of 50% Merlot and 50% Cabernet Franc, the 1989 Cheval Blanc comes from a dry, hot vintage. It has a medium brick color and the nose begins with ferrous wafts of rusty nails, giving way to a core of redcurrant preserves, sweaty leather, dusty soil, and incense, followed by a touch of unsmoked cigars. The medium-bodied palate is elegant, refreshing, and soft-textured, delivering a lifted finish.