1998 - Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan

This blew everyone away around the table, and was unquestionably the wine of the night at Haut-Brion. Still fully muscular and youthful, but welcoming, impossible to put down, this is just a gorgeous wine that deserves its elevated reputation. Cigar box, tobacco, incense, graphite, cassis, sandalwood, orange peel, saffron, elongated tannins that keep you fully engaged. 73% new oak for ageing. Jean-Bernard Delmas director.

For my money (and I have some in the cellar), the 1998 Haut-Brion is the finest vintage from this estate between 1989 and 2000, surpassing the 1990. While it remains decidedly youthful at age 25, it is beginning to stir, unfurling in the glass with aromas of dark berry fruit, cigar wrapper, loamy soil, pencil shavings and burning embers. Medium-bodied, deep and concentrated, it's layered and elegant, with refined tannins, lively acids and a long, perfumed finish. Exemplifying the ideal of intensity without weight, it enjoys a slight edge over La Mission Haut-Brion in this banner year for both properties.

The 1998 Haut-Brion is a vintage that has belatedly gained respect. It's simply one of the First Growth's best vintages since the 1989/1990. This bottle shows that it still deserves cellaring. With blackberry, crushed stone, tobacco and perhaps more floral/violet scents than I recall, it is an intense bouquet that does not hold back, yet is delivered with such panache. The palate is medium-bodied but, if anything, appears to have gained weight in recent years. Cedar-infused black fruit, allspice and tobacco, with a subtle marine influence, appear toward the finish. It is a fabulous Haut-Brion that should not be overlooked. Tasted at the Lia's Wings/book dinner at Medlar restaurant.