1998 - Vieux Chateau Certan, Pomerol

The 1998 Vieux Château Certan has an open, generous and expressive bouquet that I have always found quite exotic in style, thanks to its precocious cassis and blueberry scents, although maturity is turning down the volume. As before, there are subtle notes of menthol developing with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, relatively voluptuous in style vis-à-vis other vintages. As the 1998 has aged, I feel it has never kicked on in terms of complexity as I initially hoped. Yet, this remains a thoroughly enjoyable VCC. Tasted over lunch in London.

A fine offering, the 1998 has closed down, but there is no doubting its fabulous potential. The color is a dense purple. The wine reveals high tannin, huge body, and classy black fruits intermixed with minerals, spice box, cedar, and tobacco. A long, persistent, tannic finish gives this majestic effort a closed but formidable personality. Patience will be required. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2030.

‘Alexandre: “In 1998, Merlots and Cabernet Sauvignons reached maturity very early, and within a few days of each other. It’s rare. During this very hot summer, the Cabernet Francs suffered from excessive drought, which considerably slowed down their maturity and they did not make it into the final blend which was 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Due to Pomerol’s precocious soils, we were able to harvest before the heavy rains between 21 and 26 September. Small harvest of 34 hl/ha.” Unusual assemblage! Roy Richards has never encountered brett in his bottles of 1998. Deep crimson. Very sumptuous nose – beguiling texture. Gentle, gorgeous tannin management. Superb for me but the brett police reject it. But so lovely on the end. And very concentrated. But hopeless for anyone sensitive to brett. (JR)