2005 - Benjamin Romeo Contador, Rioja

The 2005 Contador was selected from three parcels ranging in age from 65-80 years. Malolactic fermentation occurred in new oak followed by 12 months of barrel aging. Opaque purple/black, it has a great brooding nose of crushed stone, truffle, pencil lead, black cherry, and blackberry. Rich, layered, and opulent, on the palate the wine is dense, thick, and tightly wound. Impressively long, this wine demands 12-15 years of further cellaring. It should show at its best between 2020 and 2045. Words can barely do justice to how singular these wines are. They must be tasted to be believed. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain; tel. (781) 461-5767

At the moment this is almost all structure and not much flavour, so dense and compact is the dark ripe fruit. It’s meaty and savoury, the tannins compact and dense but not astringent – rather like caked powder. Extreme minerality and bold austerity with the fruit waiting in the wings. (JH)