1997 - Sassicaia, Tenuta San Guido, Bolgheri

The 1997 Sassicaia has aged exceptionally well. Creamy, layered and enveloping, the 1997 is so alluring today. The warm, dry year (which would be considered moderate today) yielded a Sassicaia endowed with notable depth, soft curves and tons of pure sensuality. A warm, dry winter and spring led to early budbreak. Temperatures then cooled, which caused ripening to halt. That was probably a blessing in disguise, as it gave the vines time to rest before warm, dry temperatures returned and then persisted through to harvest. Yields were low, something that comes through in the wine's density. The 1997 spent 16 days on the skins and 24 months in barrel.

Magnum served with roast duck, delica pumpkin and radicchio tardivo. From a warn, initially lauded vintage. Intense, still going strong, a bit inky but also still with some freshness – but it clearly tastes as though it was made in a different era. Less sophisticated than the younger vintages shown at this dinner at Oswald’s. (JR)