2015 - Maximin Grunhauser Abtsberg Riesling Auslese, Von Schubert

This was picked near the end of October, “principally,” as von Schubert explained, “from shriveled [rosinierte] and to a lesser extent botrytis-affected berries. The dominance of desiccated berries made for high acidity as well as must weight. Right after this picking, we got another rain,” he added, “so it was good that we had finished up.” Persian melon and white peach inform a heady nose and a glossy, expansive, almost custard-rich palate. There is just enough primary juiciness to supply welcome refreshment, but for now at least, the elevated acidity isn’t evident. Hints of marzipan and licorice lend a confectionary cast to the lusciously lingering finish.

The 2015 Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Auslese is very clear and intense yet fine and delicate in its fine Riesling and slate aromas on the nose. Lush and piquant on the palate, this is a light and salty Auslese with a good, filigreed structure, nice grip and tension and stimulating salinity in the finish.

Fresh raisins, butterscotch, waxy honey and a fascinating diversity of fruit titillate the olfactory perception. On the palate, citrus and passion fruit literally ooze their sweet juices, but despite the rich texture induced by botrytis, the Abtsberg Auslese remains focused on freshness with cracking acidity and some crunchy green notes. Generous in flavour, elegant in its execution, a noble, sweet highlight of 2015. (MS)