1996 - d'Yquem, Sauternes

The 1996 Yquem is pale to medium amber in color. Spritely scents of orange blossom, honeysuckle, and pineapple upside-down cake jump from the nose, giving way to hints of green mango, lime cordial, and powdered ginger. The palate is relatively savory and energetic, delivering bright citrus and tropical fruit flavors, with a racy backbone, finishing gracefully, beautifully poised, with a lingering perfume. The residual sugar is 122 grams per liter.

Compared with the flamboyant aromatics of the 1997, Yquem's 1996 plays it closer to the vest, although there is a lot going on. Light gold with a tight but promising nose of roasted hazelnuts intermixed with creme brulee, vanilla beans, honey, orange marmalade, and peaches, this medium to full-bodied offering reveals loads of power in its restrained, measured personality. There is admirable acidity, weight, texture, and purity in this impeccably made Yquem. However, patience will be a virtue. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2060. Note: Yquem spends 42 months in 100% new oak. No cask tasting is permitted, and the wine is not released until 5 years after the vintage. For example, the 1998 will be released some time in 2003; the 2001 will not be released until 2006.

Served at The Clove Club's Bordeaux lunch with roast foie gras, loquat, hazelnut and amaranth – a particularly successful combination. Deep orangey gold. Masses of botrytis exhibited on the rich nose full of pungent lanolin. The finish was fresh and clean and the sweetness, if on a scale of 1 to 10, would be about 7. Lots of weight and presence – really very majestic. No hurry whatsoever to drink this. (JR)