1959 - d'Yquem, Sauternes

This bottle of 1959 d'Yquem had never left the estate. Evoking aromas of spices, brown sugar, caramel, marmalade and quince, all beautifully defined, it is medium-bodied, racy and refined, with plenitude on the mid-palate and a deep core of fruit. I was impressed by the tension and the particularly long, penetrating finish, complemented by a delicate phenolic aftertaste.

Last but certainly not least, the 1959 Yquem. This is another wine that I have drunk on three or four occasions. The first couple of times, it did not reach my lofty expectations, yet the last two bottles have delivered fireworks. Limpid amber in color, the bouquet errs towards Barsac in style, scents of orange pith, Clementine, dried apricot, hints of saffron and lemongrass. The palate is quite weighty, oddly, like a second cousin twice removed from the 1988 Cristal enjoyed earlier, of course, without the residual sugar and bubbles! But it had a similar weight, more waxy in texture than viscous towards the finish. It conveyed superb energy and grace.

Great wine at its peak but showing no sign of fading. Tawny with a greenish tinge at the rim. Gloriously tangy. 120 g/l. Great balance with some gunpowder and smokiness. It was extremely hot when the grapes were picked. Amazing that it's as good as it is in an era that pre-dates sophisticated temperature control. Extremely rich with notes of dried fruits. Great balnce with strong dried citrus peel notes. Vital. Slightly more pronounced acidity than another bottle I was lucky enough to try late last year in London. (Note to follow.) (JR)