2015 - Pommard 1er Cru Les Pezerolles, Michel Lafarge

(Lafarge did not bottle this wine in 2014, 2013 or 2012, and made just one and a half barrels in 2015): Medium red. Reticent aromas of black cherry, menthol and wild herbs accented by pepper and spices. Densely packed and energetic, with dark berry and black cherry flavors complicated by a licorice note. This savory wine is dominated in the early going by its serious tannic spine but the bright finish avoids dryness.

The 2015 Pommard 1er Cru Les Pezerolles, back after a few years being hailed off, has a very refined bouquet with great precision and transparency, scents of briary and sous-Bois, a touch of earl grey infusing the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with silky tannin, supremely well-judged acidity and a velvety smooth red cherry and strawberry finish that is already seductive. It will probably be over-shadowed by the clutch of outstanding Volnays from Lafarge, but it is a worthy wine in its own right.

In the middle of the vineyard – just 0.15 ha on dolomite calcaire. First vintage since 2011. One and a half pièces made. Pale ruby. Firm, solid, sweet start and some candied cherries. Firm tannins. Pretty but should last. (JR)