2016 - Le Clarence de Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan

Has the 2016 signature of muscular tannic architecture complete with floors and walls, needs longer in bottle or a serious few hours in a carafe. When it softens and opens, you are rewarded with understated incense and grilled sandalwood, alongside blackberry, cranberry and tobacco leaf. Refined with clear cushion of acidity. Jean-Philippe Masclef technical director, Jean-Philippe Delmas director.

The 2016 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion is a blend of 51.3% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13.1% Cabernet Franc, and 2.6% Petit Verdot. Deep garnet in color, it sings of blackberry preserves, chocolate-covered cherries, and mulberries, leading to hints of violets, cedar chest, and graphite. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has a taut frame of grainy tannins and bold freshness to support the densely laden black fruit layers, finishing on a lingering floral note.

The 2016 La Clarence de Haut-Brion has a classically styled bouquet with a mixture of red and black fruit, gravel and freshly rolled tobacco, blossoming in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, just a bit Burgundian in terms of tannins, very finessed with an understated yet very persistent finish. Classy. Tasted blind at the Southwold 10-Year-On tasting and again at Fells' annual tasting in London.