2016 - Les Carmes Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan

The 2016 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is made from 51% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 19% Merlot, with 65% whole bunch fermentation. It was aged for 2 years, 90% in new oak and 10% in amphorae. Deep garnet-purple colored, it needs a little coaxing to reveal notes of pure blackcurrants, black cherries, and mulberries with suggestions of Indian spices, tilled soil, and cumin seed plus a touch of cardamom. Medium-bodied, the ripe, densely laden fruit grows in the mouth with firm, grainy tannins and just enough freshness, finishing long and minerally, showing wonderful harmony.

The 2016 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is consistent with previous bottles. It soars from the glass with those (to use a word I used last time) disarming array of blackberry, iris and fig aromas, but displaying a little more blue fruit than I recall. The palate is very well balanced with a velvety texture, pure with just a hint of black pepper. Interestingly, the 65% whole bunches are barely noticeable, just a guiding hand that shapes the finish. Sapid yet tender, this is an outstanding Pessac-Léognan. Tasted from an ex-château bottle at the Icons of Bordeaux dinner at Legacy Records in New York.

Subdued power with cassis and blackberry fruits, liqourice root, cocoa beans and a wall of tannins that retains an air of controlled restraint at 6 years old. Maintains momentum and energy through the palate,with a saline lick of crushed rocks on the finish. This is sculpted, moreish, delicious. As with the 2015, a vintage again that Carmes has its own personality, and doesn't follow the pack. New winery, with softer infusion-method for the extraction of flavours and tannins, and 60% stems. Ageing takes place in a mix of 25% new oak, 5% oak casks, and 10% amphoras.