2018 - Chianti Classico Rancia Riserva, Felsina

The 2018 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia is an absolutely stunning wine. The archetype of Rancia in the past has been of a big, potent Chianti Classico but in 2018, Rancia is a wine of mind-blowing elegance and finesse. Silky, perfumed and indescribably finessed, the 2018 dazzles from start to finish. It's a magical wine in every way.

The 2018 is an unusual vintage that shows an especially austere character. Off the bat, it must be said that the Fèlsina 2018 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia would certainly benefit from more cellar time and a long drinking window. The Rancia is elegant and streamlined with a medium-bodied style that breaks from some of the more concentrated vintages we've seen in the past. The bouquet reveals a lot of dark or black character with blackcurrant, tar, resin, iron ore and a dusty hint of dry graham cracker (which reminds us of the vintage heat). Structurally, the wine offers a solid and firm footing, but it would benefit from further evolution.

Castelnuovo Berardenga. 100% Sangiovese. Lustrous ruby with orange tinges. A full ripe red-fruit nose with minty notes and hints of malt indicating some development is taking place but this is in a sweet spot right now. Elegant, ripe, balanced and super-attractive with silky tannins. Long, elegant and delicious and with gorgeous balance. It might age but not a Riserva in the real sense as this is completely ready now. (WS)