2021 - Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, Joh. Jos. Prum

Smoke and reduction still cloud the nose of the 2021 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett, but golden, aromatic, textured fruit somehow combines pink grapefruit and russet pear peel, golden Mirabelle and lime. There's wonderful ripeness channeled with absolute precision on an elegant, smooth palate. Subtle fruit echoes long, real elegance. (Sweet)

The 2021 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett is deep and flinty but bright and clear on the refined and elegant nose with beautiful crushed slate aromas. On the palate, this is a rich, round and generous, incredibly lush and supple but crystalline and even pure Sonnenuhr with a highly stimulating, mouth-watering finish. This 2021 shows the great terroir of the cru, in particular in cool vintages due to its exposition that collects the sun's rays in the morning. 7.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in May 2023.

The citrus underlying that smoky first impression – which is less marked than in some vintages – seems riper here than on the Graacher Himmelreich. Chewy and broader on the palate but pulled in on the long finish. (JH)