2022 - Domaine de Chevalier Blanc, Pessac-Leognan

The 2022 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc has turned out brilliantly in bottle, wafting from the glass with aromas of pear, jasmine, white flowers, spring blossoms and spices. Medium to full-bodied, layered and enveloping, it's charming and sappy with a dense structure, bright acids, gastronomic bitterness and a long, saline and mouthwatering finish. Confirming my expectations, this blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Sémillon is one of the best white wines of the vintage. It should gain harmony with age.

The 2022 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc does not have the bandwidth of La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc on the nose, slightly more malic, though it gains complexity in the glass, with touches of nettle and orange blossom emerging. The palate is slightly honeyed on the entry, a more powerful and sunny expression of the growing season, weighty with a pleasing oiliness and spiciness towards the finish. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting in London.

This is a blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon, and the élevage was in close to 40% new oak, for between 16 and 18 months. I like the powdery substance and intensity evident on the nose here, with crushed gravel and citrus fruits, lemon peel, white chocolate and waxy smoke, all delivered with a sense of phenolic maturity. This latter element pervades the palate, which presents lemon meringue and pastry notes, wrapped up with touches of tobacco oak, with a firm central spindle of oak and rather confident acidity which integrates with this delicately bitter grip. Great energy on the finish, with a delineated finish too, the length bitter and acid-washed. This is a very stylish interpretation of the vintage, with maturity and vivacity, and it will develop well. Tasted twice. The alcohol on the label is 13.5%.

70% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Sémillon.Pale straw. Intriguing, Certainly not just Sauvignon Blanc. Some hint of Pessac-Léognan's oiliness and lots of intricate green-fruit flavour. (JR)