2012 - Petrus, Pomerol

Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, the 2012 Petrus needs vigorous swirling to uncover notes of plum preserves, kirsch, and blueberry compote with hints of crushed rocks, truffles, licorice, and dried roses. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is laden with spicy black fruit layers and superbly ripe, rounded tannins, giving just enough freshness to lift the long earthy finish. A stunning achievement for this vintage, give it another 5-7 years in the cellar and drink it over the next 25 years+.

Ten years is not quite the sweet spot for Petrus, and it will benefit from a few more years softening in the bottle as there are layers of tannins to work through, but this is right up there as the wine of the tasting, it just jumps out of the glass. As ever with Petrus it's the texture that gets you; satin, velvet, silk, lace, all rolled up into one, with succulent black cherry and raspberry fruits given definition and depth by fennel, cocoa bean, graphite, crushed rock, jasmine and black tea. Muscular and yet fresh, it rises up through the palate and leaves you wanting more. 50% new oak, Oliver Berrouet winemaking director.

Tasted blind at the Southwold 2012 tasting, the 2012 Petrus demonstrated a forward, fruit-driven, ripe raspberry and wild strawberry bouquet underneath which lies graphite and forest floor aromas. It seems refined, understated, nonchalant even. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly savory opening, as if there was a tiny drop of Cabernet Franc. The tannins are fine but firm, the red fruit infused with cooked meat, black pepper and sage notes, although I was anticipating a finish armed with more body. That may well develop in time, yet it remains a regal Pomerol that will probably merit a higher score with bottle age, hence the plus-sign against the score. Tasted January 2016.

The 2012 Petrus has a slightly higher-toned bouquet than its peers: scents of brambly red fruit and briary, liquorice and dried herbs. This gains complexity in the glass, and a second bottle at Bordeaux Index's 10-Year-On, given two hours to open, develops some gorgeous pure plummy fruit. The palate is medium-bodied, fleshy, ripe and harmonious with pliant tannins and a little more obvious oak towards the sensual finish, white pepper and thyme lingering on the aftertaste. Wonderful. Tasted twice at Bordeaux Index's Ten Year-On tasting and blind at the Southwold Ten-Year On tasting.

Looks much more evolved than Le Pin tasted alongside. Glowing ruby. Sweet and opulent with a really rich undertow. Not one of Petrus’s most glorious vintages but a lovely long, confident finish. (JR)