2008 - Latour, Pauillac

A cooler vintage than the others tasted in this lineup, and much younger, so it might have been expected to underperform, but it's a reminder of why terroirs like Latour are so special. Expect a firm tannic architecture that is going to power through the ages, a backbone of freshness, olive pit, iris and peony flowers, the deep cassis and bilberry character that is so consistent of Latour, alongside curls of bitter black chocolate. The finish is a little less smooth than the other vintages we have here, and it needs another decade to really reach the plateau, but hard not to take a punt on its ability to deliver in the future. 100% new oak for ageing. Penelope Godefroy vineyard director, Frederic Engerer director.

The 2008 Latour is a blend of 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 0.75% Cabernet Franc, and 0.25% Petit Verdot. It reveals a deep garnet-brick color, with broody opening notes of tar, underbrush, and dusty soil, giving way to an evocative core of baked plums, warm cassis, and anise. The medium-bodied palate features impressive vibrancy and freshness with fine-grained tannins and a long, savory finish.

The 2008 Latour has a fragrant and floral bouquet with blueberry and blackberry fruit, violet and pressed iris petals, almost Margaux-like in style. The palate is medium-bodied with touches of brown spice on the entry. There's a good definition here. Graphite notes appear toward a finish that tapers a little, giving away that it comes from a trickier growing season than others. Tasted blind from double magnum at a 20-year retrospective at the château.

Composed of 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 0.75% Cabernet Franc and 0.25% Petit Verdot, the 2008 Latour gives a medium to deep garnet color and slips sensuously out of the glass with Chinese five spice, unsmoked cigars, sandalwood and dried roses scents over a core of warm cassis, Black Forest cake, chocolate mint and smoked meats plus a waft of black olives and garrigue. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is well-sustained in the middle with generous black fruits and lovely red fruit sparks, layered with savory nuances and a firm, grainy backbone, finishing with bags of perfume and freshness.

Tasted blind. Hint of swampiness on nose. Thick, sweet and quite dramatic. Very dense. Lots of life here. (JR)