2010 - Chateauneuf-du-Pape Sanctus Sanctorum, Clos Saint Jean

The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Sanctus Sanctorum is the most classic in style, yet is still over-the-top and decadent in every way. Giving up heavenly aromas and flavors of creme de cassis, black raspberry, ground spice, sweet licorice and roasted herbs, it has a massive, voluptuous, layered and insanely pure feel on the palate. If you’re a Grenache lover, it doesn’t get any better. Since taking control of the estate in 2002, and bringing on board rock star consultant Philippe Cambie, the Maurel brothers has been knocking it out of the park in literally every vintage. 2004? Gorgeous wines and easily at the top in a recent retrospective. The cooler, rainy 2008? Beautiful ripeness and texture, and again, at the top of the hierarchy. 2011 is the same story, and it’s amazing what this team has accomplished in all of their vintages. Looking at this retrospective, we went through all of their cuvees going back to 2003. Unfortunately, there’s no new information here, and this tasting simply confirmed what myself and Robert Parker have been saying for some time now; Clos Saint Jean is at the top of their game and producing some of the most singular, hedonistic and brilliant wines in the world. Starting out with the classic Chateauneuf du Pape, it’s normally a blend of 75% Grenache, with the balance a mix of Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Muscardin and Vaccarese. As is common at this estate, the Grenache is aged all in tank, and the other varieties in a mix of tank and barrels. While I think this cuvee always lags the Vieilles Vignes bottling, it is consistently outstanding and always a super value. Moving to the old vine cuvee, this is made especially for the US Market and is 85% tank aged, old vine Grenache, and the balance Syrah and Mourvedre. It too almost always represents a crazy value and has a broad drink window. I’m currently finishing up a case of the ’08, and purchased two cases of the 2010, which is just starting to open back up after closing down shortly after re

(two new demi-muids of this; made from a tiny parcel of old vines grenache that was planted in 1905; bottled exclusively in magnums): Bright ruby. A strikingly complex bouquet evokes candied red and dark berries, potpourri, sandalwood and Asian spices. Smells like an exotic Grand Cru Burgundy from a ripe vintage. Coats the palate with sweet black and blue fruit and floral pastille flavors that gain energy and spiciness with air. Gentle tannins give shape and grip to an endless, sweet, penetrating finish.