1997 - Bollinger, R.D.

(65% pinot noir and 35% chardonnay) Light yellow-gold. Expansive, smoky aromas of dried citrus fruits, peach, poached pear and honey, with a slow-building spiciness. Open-knit and gently sweet on entry, then tighter and more mineral-driven in the middle palate, offering lively orange and orchard fruit flavors and touches of nougat and praline. Smoothly melds richness and vivacity, finishing with superb clarity and nervy persistence. Here's yet another impressive 1997, a vintage which seems doomed to live in the shadow of 1995 and 1996. This was disgorged after aging for eight years in its bottle under cork.