1996 - La Tache Grand Cru, Domaine de la Romanee-Conti

Brilliant ruby-red. Ineffable liqueur-like perfume combines blackberry, black raspberry, cassis, truffle and tar. Fat, sweet and dense but quite closed in the mouth; not yet showing La Tache's typical licorice component. But a complete wine with superb structure and a very, very long and subtle aftertaste that builds slowly and saturates the olfactories.

Surprisingly, looks more mature than the Échézeaux at the rim and is even a bit paler. Heady bouquet of violets and game (nothing is perfect but the bouquet is really very interesting, says Aubert with dramatic understatement) – the start of real complexity and absolutely gorgeous on the palate. So opulent and rich and layered and throat warming. Jewel bright fruit, though the tannins are definitely still present. Very long and layered. Really dances on the palate! Still a little tight. (JR)