2009 - Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques Vieille Vigne, Fourrier

The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques is a seamless beauty laced with hard candy, perfumed cherries, kirsch and spices. The sweetest and silkiest of tannins caress the palate from start to finish as this sublime Burgundy conquers all of the senses. The laser-like, pure finish is breathtaking. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2034. Count me among the Burgundy fans who are thrilled Jean-Marie Fourrier chose not to pursue the career as a commercial airline pilot for which he studied. Fourrier began picking on September 17. In 2009 the fruit was destemmed. Cuvaison lasted around 14 days but Fourrier commented that he had an unusually high (50%) amount of shot berries, which had the effect of extending the fermentations for another week or so. The malos started and ended early, hence Fourrier decided to bottle early as well. Per his usual practice, Fourrier left the wines on the lees with no racking until the wines were prepared for bottling. On average the wines saw 20% new oak. I tasted all of the 2009s from bottle. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a precocious kirsch and white pepper nose, displaying a little more VA compared directly with the 2010. The palate is rich and decadent with sloes and mulberry fruit, but it lacks a bit of tension and seems to run out of steam towards the finish. Maybe it is just past its peak? Tasted at the Southwold Burgundy dinner at Hatched restaurant.

Mid cherry red. Very introvert. The least expressive nose so far. Very juicy and dense with a slighty meat and two veg streak. Solid and different and very chewy and introvert. Though even here it is very sweet and fresh overall. Extremely brisk and refreshing!! (JR)