2010 - Echezeaux Grand Cru, Domaine de la Romanee-Conti

Things really take off with the 2010 Echezeaux, which is a meaningful step up from the earlier wines in this tasting. The 2010 surprises for its size and sheer volume. It boasts phenomenal depth and richness in its intense dark red fruit. The sheer energy and vibrancy of the fruit is remarkable. A huge, explosive finish makes it impossible to resist a second taste. This is a great showing from the Echezeaux, even if the 2010 is notably bigger than is typical for this bottling. The Echezeaux was the last fruit to be picked in 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040. I tasted the 2010s twice from barrel, once in the summer just as the wines were about to be racked and then again during my early December visit. On both occasions the wines were stellar. Like virtually all of his colleagues, co-manager Aubert de Villaine was surprised by the level of the 2010s given all of the challenges of the growing season. I could repeat everything de Villaine told me, but there is no better source than the man himself, so readers who want to learn more about the 2010 harvest may want to take a look at my interview with de Villaine on www.erobertparker.com. Overall, I am very impressed with the 2010s with the exception of the Corton, which appears to be a notch or two below the 2009. The 2010 that most greatly exceeds its appellation and historical level of quality is the Echezeaux. I also tasted the 2010 Vosne-Romanee Cuvee Duvault-Blochet but the domaine had not yet decided if the wine would be released. I will report on the 2009s in our April issue. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

Good bright, deep red. Superb precision to the aromas of black cherry, dark raspberry and Oriental spices. Intensely flavored and bracing, with terrific saline energy to the flavors of red berries, white pepper and blood orange. Showing more fruit intensity today than the Corton. Leaves the palate tingling on the long, vibrant aftertaste. A superb vintage for this cuvee. Aubert de Villaine noted that he vinified his 2010 reds with 60% to 80% whole clusters, with the higher percentage generally used for vines affected by millerandage.

Very sweet and charming without being at all heavy. Flirtatious. Strawberry. Still quite a bit of tannin. (JR)