2006 - Ducru-Beaucaillou, Saint-Julien

The 2006 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot. Deep garnet in color with a touch of brick, it reveals notes of dried cranberries, preserved plums, and redcurrant jelly with hints of dried sage, unsmoked cigars, and sweaty leather plus a hint of graphite. The medium-bodied palate is refreshing and minerally, with chewy tannins and a minerally finish.

This was a vintage that took time to shake off its serious side, and the tannins remain pretty sombre, but set against the classicism of the cassis and blueberry fruits is plenty of slate, graphite, cocoa, pepper, turmeric and black chocolate that adds richness and power. Softening to show the first hints of tertiary, with classic St Julien character, lovely fresh acidities. A subdued vintage that has grown into its balance. The first year with Virginie Sallette as winemaker, promoted to technical director in 2008. Harvest September 18 to October 7.

The 2006 Ducru-Beaucaillou, matured in 90% new oak, has quite a captivating, very attractive bouquet, a mélange of red and black fruit, peony, crushed rocks and blood orange - one of my favourite aromatics on the Left Bank in this growing season. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, fine acidity, quite linear and "solid". There is a lot of concentration towards the finish, a dab of spice that leaves the tongue tingling. Maybe it could benefit from more nuance and personality on the finish, but it is certainly a very fine Saint-Julien for the vintage. Tasted at the Ducru Beaucaillou vertical at the château.