2012 - Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques Vieille Vigne, Fourrier

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St Jacques from Fourrier is showing the most stems on the nose, but it is so full of character with supreme delineation. The aromatics clearly need three or four years to fully coalesce. The palate is divine: supremely fine tannin, perfectly judged acidity, utterly harmonious with not a hair out of place on the finish. There is so much sophistication here that it does not know what to do with itself. This is the Clos Saint Jacques that is leading the pack - a quite brilliant wine from Jean-Marie Fourrier.

Bright, moderately saturated dark red. Brilliantly pure, vibrant aromas of raspberry, rose petal, spices and crushed stone; here the terroir trumps the vintage character. Wonderfully silky on the palate but with a firm spine of acidity giving the flavors of red berries, flowers and crushed stone a youthfully clenched quality. Finishes with outstanding breadth and saline complexity, the noble tannins thoroughly coated by fruit. It will be a treat to try this wine next to the 2013 version a decade from now.

Vines planted 1900/01. Nine casks compared with the usual 15-18 – so little that his father was in tears.Scented and savoury – the most seductive and expressive of the three Clos St-Jacques I have tasted today but this is truly glorious. Not massive in construction but very linear and limpid. Crunchy very clean – clean as a mountain stream! (JR)