2008 - Brane-Cantenac, Margaux

Firm velvet red colour, austere and still firm in its tannic structure. Savoury dark fruits, raspberry leaf, tobacco, campfire, creamy texture as it opens, plenty of life still but I would suggest enjoying over the next five years to make the most of the fruit. A challenging vintage, changeable weather throughout until sustained sunshine during harvest, that lasted from September 20 to October 17, 44.7hl/h yield, 3.75ph, 70% new oak for ageing. Eric Boissenot consultant, Henri Lurton owner, Christophe Capdeville technical director. Maybe 92.

Tasted at the Brane-Cantenac vertical at the château, the 2008 Brane-Cantenac is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. The nose is quite striking with a tang of eucalyptus, a trait that Henri Lurton himself picked up when we tasted together. The palate is medium-bodied with a peppermint-tinged entry, the tannins quite thick and perhaps lacking the precision that Henri imparts into his Margaux wine nowadays. There is something not quite true to the style of Brane-Cantenac here, mimicking something it is not, trying to be a different person. It is an enjoyable wine but I would broach this in its youth. Tasted April 2015.

The 2008 Brane-Cantenac continues to display the eucalyptus element that I have noticed on previous bottles, and frankly, it’s distracting and obscures the terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied and slightly medicinal in style, and one of the most rounded Brane-Cantenacs in recent years in terms of texture, something that I would not have predicted given the vintage. However, the finish lacks the complexity and typicité that I expect from the estate. Tasted at the Brane-Cantenac vertical at the château.

70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. 44.7 hl/ha.Garnet hue, pale at the rim. Fresh and lifted on the nose with a hint of mint. Some sweetness on attack. Polished tannins. Lighter weight and not overly complex, but harmonious. (JL)