2011 - Taylor's, Vargellas Vinha Velha Vintage

The 2011 Quinta de Vargellas Vinha Velha Vintage Port is a typical field blend aged in used French oak vats. It comes in with 105 grams per liter of residual sugar. The youngest, fleshiest and fullest (perhaps because it is the youngest) of this vertical except for the unbottled 2017, this is also one of the most delicious. The fruit is so delectable that, at first, you don't notice how much pure power it has. Then, it's gorgeously textured, precise, focused and penetrating. This Vinha Velha is not ready, of course, but it is already more approachable and expressive than the 2009, as well as more generous. The fruit is simply more vivid. From the aromatics, with touches of eucalyptus, to the subtly rich feel, this is brilliant. Is it the best of the vertical? At the moment, it is not even close, but it is also the youngest and most immature of the bottled wines. In fruit, structure and aromatics, it has all the components for greatness. This doesn't show the best today, but it's worth betting on it for the long haul.

From vines planted in 1908 and 1910. Just 300 cases made. One bottle from four vines (cf one vine). Very dark indeed. Very luscious and yet with masses of tannins. Still very youthful. Full of exuberance and potential. Still tense and crammed in, but it opens out in the most gorgeous, floral-building palate. This is going to be great. (JR)