2007 - Hermitage Ex Voto Rouge, E. Guigal

A similar extroverted, sexy style to the '09, just on a slightly smaller scale, the 2007 Hermitage Ex Voto offers sensational black raspberry, creme de cassis, creamy licorice and crushed flower-like aromas and flavors, with the telltale minerality/graphite of the Hermitage Hill coming through with time in the glass. While aged close to four years in 100% new French oak, you'd never know it by tasting it. This full-bodied, beautifully concentrated, layered and already approachable beauty will have another 30+ years of drinkability.

Inky ruby. A highly fragrant bouquet displays black and blue fruits, violet and olive, with powerful spice notes adding energy. Rich, perfumed and expansive blackberry and boysenberry flavors stain the palate and are complemented by cola and floral pastille nuances. The bright, incisive finish features intense spiciness and a lingering violet quality. This wine's vineyard components are 40% each of Greffieux and Bessards and 10% each of Ermite and Murands.

Tasted blind. Looked very much more evolved than the Chave equivalent served alongside. Deep ruby with a rust-coloured rim. Relaxed leather and liquorice notes on the nose. Round with perceptible fruit. Lovely now and a much better drink for today than the Chave 2007. Rich, transparent, long and racy. Ready. Oddly, the back label of this wine claimed it was white. Arguably a little gentler than archetypal, long-living Hermitage. (JR)