2007 - Hermitage Blanc, Jean Louis Chave

The exuberant 2007 Hermitage Blanc reveals notes of petroleum, crushed rocks, earth, white currants and peaches, an unctuous texture, high glycerin and good acidity. This big, thick white Hermitage will not be as long lived as the 2009, but for drinking over the next two decades, it is impossible to resist. Jean-Louis and Gerard Chave opened a bottle of the 2003 Hermitage Blanc to give me an idea of how this vintage is aging. This monumental offering, which flirts with perfection, has virtually no acidity and is aging beautifully. The Chaves believe it is a repeat of what Gerard’s father made in 1929. Tasting through the different Hermitage vineyards (including Peleat, Les Beaumes, Meal, l’Ermite and Les Bessards), the lowest score any of these lots received was 94-96 (Les Beaumes). The other parcels all merited 97-100 points. The most dominant component part of Chave’s red Hermitage comes from Les Bessards, which many consider to be the greatest vineyard on Hermitage Hill. The next largest is Meal, a vineyard with a more southerly exposure. While Chave has not made their special cuvee, Cuvee Cathelin, since 2003, I suspect one will emerge from the different lots of Les Bessards that I tasted as 2009 is certainly a year where enough wine can be culled out for the Cathelin without sacrificing the monumental quality of the regular Hermitage. This looks to be one of the wines of the vintage, which is not surprising given the fact that the Chave family has more experience than just about anybody in the winemaking world (the domaine was founded in 1481 - nearly a decade before Christopher Columbus discovered America!). Importer: David Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel (213) 483-5900

Bright yellow. Mineral-driven aromas of white peach, nectarine, orange zest and anise, plus an exotic note of yellow Chartreuse. Fleshy orchard and pit fruit flavors enter with very good breadth and richness but the minerality clamps the fruit down in the middle palate and a zesty, peppery element contributes lift and cut. Extremely young and not offering much in the way of complexity on the palate now. The strong, incisive finish strongly echoes the spice and mineral notes. This one demands patience.

This is still in its youthful earlier drinking period (2009-12, suggested the Chaves – or inbetween the two periods if it’s not served too cold) and was bottled in early Sep 2009. Lots of richness and fullness but good acidity too. There is lots of minerality and a little bitterness on the finish that gives it life. Waxy and exciting. (JR)