2012 - Chambolle-Musigny, Georges Roumier

The 2012 Chambolle-Musigny Village has one of those “stalking” bouquets that creep up on you, unfurling with its earthy red berry fruit mingling with forest floor and briary. The palate is very well balanced with crisp tannins, the fruit erring towards dark berries towards the finish that is very precise. This is devilishly delicious. Christophe Roumier was multitasking when I arrived at his domaine in Chambolle-Musigny: his mobile constantly trilling and tasting parties arriving in haphazard fashion, running here and running there. And as we know, men are not cut out for multitasking. No wonder he complained about his headache, though hopefully the aspirin, washed down with a glug of Musigny, relieved his mal de tete. But generally Christophe Roumier was in top form – just like his wines. He commenced the harvest on 22 September after the usual travails of the growing season that reduced his crops. He rued the fact that he is undergoing an expansion of his cellars, but after 2012 and a meagre 2013, has little to put in them. He suggested a comparison between 2010 and 2012, though the latter is less tannic and more “weightless” – a great word to describe many of this vintage’s wines. This year there is all but one and a half barrels of his elusive Musigny. It is an utterly transcendental wine, perhaps equal to the 2005 when I encountered that out of barrel, but if that proves just a wee bit difficult to find, then the Clos de la Bussieres is a quite brilliant Morey Saint Denis that will offer immense pleasure over the next 20 years. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa CA; tel. (707) 299-2600

Bright medium red. High-pitched aromas and flavors of raspberry, menthol, mint and crushed rock. Juicy and energetic for 2012 and perhaps already shutting down in the bottle. Almost painful on the back end today. This serious, firmly tannic village wine should be cellared at at least a few years.