2013 - Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut Saint-Jacques, Denis Mortet

From 50-year-old vines that usually yield a generous 40 hectoliters per hectare, or thereabouts, the 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St Jacques has a very succinct and focused bouquet with mineral notes interwoven throughout the black cherry, blueberry and iodine scents. The palate is medium-bodied and is showing some of the 60% new oak at the moment, although there is sufficient fruit to absorb it. This has fine symmetry and focus with quite a long, tender finish. This is a sublime Gevrey-Chambertin to enjoy over the ensuing two decades, possibly more.

Bright red with ruby tones. Blackberry, licorice, spices and violet on the nose. Supple, juicy and penetrating, with a strong violet character following through on the palate. Plush and fine-grained but quite dry. The youthfully clenched but well-integrated tannins will require patience. This fruit was picked at 11.5% potential alcohol and chaptalized to 12.8%, according to Mortet.

Very dark crimson. Intense. Concentrated. A little savage and demanding. It may get there but for the moment it’s a bit brutal and drying. Mass rather than subtlety. (JR)