2004 - Roda Roda I Reserva, Rioja

As we didn't have another recent vintage to compare with the 2010 and the expectations were so high, Roda's CEO Agustín Santolaya insisted on uncorking another excellent vintage, the 2004 Roda I, to check on its evolution. The production and source of the grapes was basically the same as today, 100% Tempranillo that, back then, was fermented in French oak vats with indigenous yeasts, followed by aging in barriques for 16 months. There might be some things in common with 2010, which is the current vintage—a very balanced year with great ripeness and acidity, wines with power and elegance and a very slow development. This 2004 is aging at a glacial pace and should have a long life ahead of it. At the time, they produced 184,447 bottles of this 2004. It has been in bottle since May 2006.

Glass-staining ruby. Strikingly pungent aromas of red berry preserves, smoky minerals and fresh herbs. Pure, sweet red and dark berry flavors are firmed by fine-grained tannins and gain a richer mocha quality with aeration. The impressively long and assertive finish echoes the dark berry note and leaves a zesty mineral quality behind. I find this wine more energetic than many 2004s, which are typically on the richer side.

Not as open as the 2007 but with more stuffing and ageability. Lots of tannin and extract buried in here. Dry finish. An admirably complete wine. (JR)