2009 - Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien

Still young and brooding, this is pure St Julien, pure Barton loveliness. Great quality, juicy, balanced, crayon and cassis, we are right in the heart of the appellation here, but with the intensity and concentration turned up to full. 60% new oak for ageing.

The 2009 Léoville-Barton is one of the few Saint-Julien '09s to suggest just a smidgen of brettanomyces on the nose, although frankly it does not detract from its allure, with lovely meat juice and brown spice aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, juicy and slightly chewier than its peers, well judged acidity with ample density and rondeur towards the finish. It might benefit from another year in bottle but otherwise, this is just a wonderful, life-affirming and disarmingly charming Léoville-Barton. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.

Medium to deep garnet colored, the 2009 Leoville Barton gives up expressive cherry cordial, warm cassis and blackberry tart scents with nuances of menthol, cigar box and fallen leaves. Medium-bodied and elegantly played with loads of freshness and soft tannins, it has a long, perfumed finish.

Tasted blind. Hint of sweaty socks on the nose. Then extremely opulent sweet fruit that seems rather separate from the acidity and ripe tannin. Not perfect but there are sufficient elements here to suggest it will develop into something pretty smart. Very youthful. (JR)