1986 - Lynch-Bages, Pauillac

A still-young, stunning Lynch Bages that has beautiful softly-spun tannins, plenty of brambled dark fruits all woven through with cold ash and campfire smoke. The sharp breath of mint freshness brings us into Pauillac, and tertiary has never been so good. Jean-Michel Cazes in his prime. This was also the year that he began heading up AXA Millésimes, notably Pichon Baron - but clearly hadn't taken his eye off the ball at his home estate.

The 1986 Lynch-Bages is a vintage that I have not encountered for some time. Deep in hue, it has an attractive nose with blackberry, melted asphalt, mint and a hint of gravel in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins considering the vintage. It's powerful but has the elegance that Jean-Michel Cazes made sure his wines had in this decade. Not as austere as some 1986s, this Lynch Bages might lack the fireworks of the 1989 or 1990, but as a precursor to those vintages, it is a might fine Pauillac. Tasted at the château.

The 1986 Lynch Bages has a knockout bouquet that wraps its arms around you with all its loveliness: pure black cherries, mint and cedar, even a touch of glycerine still there. Vibrant and youthful. The palate is beautifully balanced, crisp and taut, linear but very precise with a fine bead of acidity. You just fall for the harmony of this Lynch Bages, the intensity of fruit that seems undiminished on the finish. Is it up there with the 1989 and 1990? Maybe not, but it is not far behind. Frankly this Lynch Bages is a 1986 Claret that you cannot own too much of and as I commented to Jean-Michel Cazes tasting alongside me, at 30 years of age it still has more to give. Tasted July 2016.

Deep, blackish crimson - deeper than the 1995 Lynch-Bages served alongside. Fully evolved nose and massively flattering richness on the palate. This is still pretty glorious and very much a Lynch-Bages rather than classic claret. Spicy and broad and persistent. Really rather delicious! With a hint of graphite. A very good bottle. Chock-full of fruit and character despite the relatively low alcohol. (JR)