1970 - Giscours, Margaux

Happy to report that the 1970 vintage at Giscours is still alive and well, showing why it is such an iconic bottle. Deep ruby in colour with just a hint of tawny rose around the edges, creamy autumnal fruits, softly spoken and delicate but generous, with an emphasis on floral aromatics. It hovers above the palate, with fresh juicy acidities cushioning the autumnal raspberry fruit, held in place by confident, long-limbed tannins and a mouthwatering finish. Holding on better than the 1982. Emily Peynaud consultant, Tari family owners.

The 1970 Giscours is a wine that I have tasted three or four times over the years, though curiously, the least impressive was at the Giscours vertical held at the château in 2015, which I suspect might have had a bit of TCA. But the last bottle was reminiscent of two wonderful examples I tasted in 2002 and later in 2009. It has a slightly austere bouquet at first, with introspective dark berry fruit scents laced with freshly rolled tobacco and forest floor. The 1970 unfolds like origami, revealing light rose petal aromas. The palate is utterly harmonious, never powerful or demanding attention, yet ethereal in its exquisite balance and poise. This is one of the great Giscours under the Tari family.