2006 - Sassicaia, Tenuta San Guido, Bolgheri

The 2006 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia has an impression of smoke drifting across the countryside, though as if seen through the haze of memory. Perhaps the nose could be a bit brighter, but the wine is soft, round and velvety on the palate, quite fleshy and immediately appealing. The texture is amazing, with the superfine tannins integrating beautifully into the body of the wine. Drinking beautifully now.

The Tenuta San Guido 2006 Bolgheri Sassicaia is a timeless classic. This might just be the vintage to photograph in an encyclopedia entry for Sassicaia. This is especially true at this exact moment in its long and promising drinking window. The wine shows less volume compared to some of the more opulent vintages, but it absolutely excels in terms of length and finish. It offers amazing drive and momentum that are fueled by the extremely fine nature of the wine's texture and the seamless unity of its flavors. It treads in light and delicate footsteps that will carry it far into the future. As they say in Italian: "Piano piano si va lontano" (slowly slowly you go far).

(85% cabernet sauvignon and 15% cabernet franc) Bright red-ruby. Complex nose melds red cherry, blackcurrant, minerals, dried herbs and a delicate oaky vanillin nuance; the fruit aromas show an almost roasted quality without going over the top. Sweet, concentrated and nicely fresh, with an impression of strong extract and a hint of exotic fruits to the flavors of ripe red and dark berries, chocolate, plum and wild herbs. The candied fruit quality carries through on the long, smooth finish, where there's a trace of heat and hints of menthol and minerals. A very successful Sassicaia but, in my notebook, just a little below the lofty heights of the 2001 or 2004. But given the quality of this wine, that's quibbling.