2001 - Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Soldera Case Basse

Soldera's 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is just as it was when I tasted it from barrel last year, which is to say monumental. This silky-textured Brunello offers an array of crushed flowers, spices and deeply-layered dark red fruit in a style that manages to be both delicate and powerful at the same time. Deceptively medium-bodied at this stage, it appears to be holding back much of its potential but will be a remarkable wine in another decade or so. This is a superb effort from Montalcino's most eccentric producer. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

The 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva shows a touch of VA on the nose at first, though aeration benefits the aromatics, gaining delineation as hints of caramel and star anise infuse opulent black, plummy fruit. The palate is very well balanced, with silky tannins and a sweet core of candied, more red-toned fruit than the nose. This bottle is not quite firing on all cylinders, just a little too alcoholic on the finish, though still a charmer.