2009 - Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Suchots, Jean Grivot

The 2009 Vosne-Romanee Les Suchots is likely to require considerable patience. A dark core of introspective fruit occasionally emerges, but this remains reticent and inward. The wine will not come to the taster, rather readers will have to seek out the qualities that lie within this superbly pedigreed, exceptional wine. The finish is long, weightless and totally divine. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2034. This is a gorgeous set of wines from Etienne and Marielle Grivot that captures the essence of several of Vosne’s most illustrious vineyards. Grivot encourages slow malos and leaves the wines on the lees for approximately 15 months after the vinification. New oak ranges from 15-20% for the villages, 30-50% for the 1ers and 40-70% for the grands crus. Based on the wines I tasted 2009 looks like a much more consistent vintage than 2008. The finest 2008s are also well worth considering, but there are more highs and lows, especially in the entry part of the range. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa CA; tel. (707) 299-2600

Bright medium red. Less flamboyant on the nose but also livelier than the Beaux Monts, with tangy cherry and raspberry aromas lifted by minerality. The palate delivers superb tension and cut for the vintage, with a hint of menthol austerity and little in the way of easy sweetness to the berry and mineral flavors. Finishes with noble tannins and outstanding sneaky length. This very firmly structured wine should repay a decade of cellaring.