2005 - Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien

Intense and concentrated, deep ruby colour, just beginning to slide out of primary character at 20 years old, mint leaf, blueberry fruits, cocoa bean, olive paste, incense and rosemary. Tasted out of magnum, and certainly in this format I would suggest holding it back for another four or five years, or giving it a long carafe. The 11th generation of the Bartons have now arrived, assuring this remarkable family saga continues. 50% new oak.

The 2005 Leoville Barton is deep brick-colored. It needs a fair bit of shaking to wake up notes of blackberry preserves, crème de cassis, mince pie, and kirsch, giving way to a perfume of candied violets and wood smoke, plus a hint of cardamom. The light to medium-bodied palate is laden with black and red berry layers, supported by firm, ripe, grainy tannins and seamless acidity, finishing with epic length and depth. Gorgeous!

The 2005 Léoville Barton has a delightful bouquet with more red fruit than the Langoa, wild strawberry, redcurrant, light cedar and wild mint. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and modest depth, quite fresh with a slightly rustic finish. It becomes a little medicinal with time. The 2005 is cut from a different cloth to contemporary Léoville Barton but it is still worth seeking out. Tasted at the château.

Léoville Barton’s 2005 has an inky ruby/purple color and shows fairly high tannin levels, but the balance is slightly better that the Langoa Barton, which is very hard. This is probably a 30-year wine and needs at least another 20 years of cellaring, and while the tannins are high, they are balanced more thoroughly and competently. With deep cassis and red currant fruit, the wine is earthy, spicy, medium to full-bodied, and needs at least another decade. Drink it between 2025 and 2050.

Bluer than most, and not that dense. But lifted and well past the austere stage. Richer than many vintages of Barton. Refreshing. Invigorating though very dry on the end and far from a heavyweight. (JR)