1993 - Chambertin Grand Cru, Armand Rousseau

The 1993 Chambertin Grand Cru has long been one of the standouts of this vintage and I fondly recall guzzling this when it was about fifty quid a bottle. Those were the days! This is wonderful, with that effortless nose of dark berry fruit, oyster shells and light estuarine aromas that surface with time in the glass. Beautiful delineation, yet quite old school. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, perfect acidity, a sense of transparency that you can obtain in a cooler growing season. Bottles from good cellars are still doling out pleasure.

Just surpassing the 1991, Rousseau's 1993 Chambertin Grand Cru wafts from the glass with a lovely bouquet of wild berries, exotic spices, peonies, raw cocoa and forest floor. Full-bodied, sensual and seamless, with terrific depth at the core, melted tannins and lively acids, it's a concentrated, complete Chambertin at the peak of its powers today.

Superb. Full ample spread of autumnal aromas was followed by seriously rich, intense fruit, some slight gaminess but overall beautifully refreshing on the finish. Utterly complete. Such vitality. Extraordinary growth in value from £780 per case of 12 when it was first offered en primeur! (JR)