2010 - Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Marechale Rouge, Jacques-Frederic Mugnier

It is very interesting to taste the 2010 Nuits St. Georges Clos de la Marechale after the Grand Crus and the Amoureuses. It is easily the darkest and most tannic of the 2010s. The Marechale shows marvelous depth and the richness to match its decidedly powerful, virile personality. This has tons of fruit and muscle, yet also possesses the fabulous inner perfume and mineral-driven energy that is such a signature of the vintage. This is an impressive showing. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040. Leave it to Frederic Mugnier to take a contrarian view of the 2010 vintage. Mugnier is quite clear in espousing his opinion that not only is 2009 a better vintage than 2010, but that the 2009s will be longer-lived as well. His advice to me was to drink the 2010s now and cellar the 2009s. Mugnier’s highly personal take is also reflected in the unconventional order in which these wines were tasted. I have to say, it was quite eye-opening to taste the wines in a different sequence than is the norm, as it keeps the palate and intellect sharp. The harvest started on September 22. As has been the case for a while, the focus is on doing as little as possible to the wines once they are in cellar, which among other things means that new oak is now practically non-existent here. Readers who want to learn more might want to take a look at my interview with Frederic Mugnier posted on our website. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640

Very deep, bright red. Sappy black cherry, raspberry, cola and licorice on the nose, plus a whiff of animal fur. Big, deep and chocolatey, with serious depth of black cherry and dark berry fruit. The big Nuits-Saint-Georges tannins are sexed up by high-toned oak spices on the impressively long finish. Jacques-Frederic Mugnier punches down the cap late in the fermentation, when the juice is almost dry and the skins have softened, an approach that he believes results in a steadier uptake of sugar in his wines.

I thought this was a quite lovely wine on the night – possibly one of the best-value too. Rich, racy and complete that was both luscious and fresh. Lifted, long and silky, it seemed to be almost swishing its skirts. Clever chap, that Fred Mugnier. (JR)