2008 - Ornellaia, Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, Bolgheri

A muscular Ornellaia at 15 years old, filled with toasted and grilled cedar and sandalwood notes. Powerful and vibrant, with black cherry and blackcurrant fruits, edged with liqourice, balsamic, spice and fennel, delivering plenty of umami texture and character. Even now I would suggest that it can benefit from a little longer in bottle, or ensure a good long carafe. This was the year that Olga Fusari joined the team fully as winemaker, working alongside Axel Heinz. Harvest September 2 to October 7, after a growing season with a cool and rainy spring, then intense heat over the summer. 70% new oak.

The 2008 Ornellaia continues to blossom in the bottle. Dark cherries, chocolate, espresso, blackberries and mocha are just some of the many notes that explode from the glass. A rich tapestry of licorice, tar and camphor notes develop in the glass, adding considerable complexity. The 2008 is a huge, structured Ornellaia endowed with massive structure. It has come together beautifully since the early days when it was a tannic beast. Readers who can be patient will be rewarded with a spectacular bottle of wine. This is a fabulous showing. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2033. The 2009 vintage was not easy at Tenuta dell’Ornellaia because of the scorching hot summer. Readers may want to take a look at my video interview with Axel Heinz for more on the 2009 vintage. Importer: Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 256-2700

The 2008 Ornellaia continues to blossom in the bottle. Dark cherries, chocolate, espresso, blackberries and mocha are just some of the many notes that explode from the glass. A rich tapestry of licorice, tar and camphor notes develop in the glass, adding considerable complexity. The 2008 is a huge, structured Ornellaia endowed with massive structure. It has come together beautifully since the early days when it was a tannic beast. Readers who can be patient will be rewarded with a spectacular bottle of wine. This is a fabulous showing.

54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot. Summer 2008 initially very hot then mid Sept (during Merlot harvest) there was a complete change and huge drop in temps – below 20 ºC until end Oct. 10-15 days' post-ferment maceration. Malo mainly in barriques (70% new). Blended after 12 months in barrel, then another 8 months in oak. 10 months in bottle prior to release.Black core. Has that slight dusty darkness that is so attractive in its restraint. Dark fruit and some cedar but also the sweetness of damsons and then savoury/balsamic. On the palate, more austere than 09 and currently a little drying on the finish. Tannins like a deep pile carpet but stiff pile. Not as fleshy as 2009. (JH)