2009 - Malescot St. Exupery, Margaux

An inky/purple color is followed by notes of Asian plum sauce, forest floor, creme de cassis, black raspberries and a floral component that is unusual for a Margaux. A wine of exceptional intensity and purity with a full-bodied, sumptuous texture, lots of fresh vibrancy and excellent definition, this beautiful 2009 exhibits high but sweet tannin. It is more sexy than the 2005 was at a similar age, although their level of extract and concentration is relatively equal. Something about the 2009 reminds me of a Margaux version of St.-Julien's Leoville Poyferre ... if that makes any sense. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2040. This is another fabulous effort from an estate that has been doing extraordinary work over the last 10-15 years. I enjoyed the 2009 as much as the 2005, perhaps even slightly more because while it has structure, the tannins are less aggressive and there is more succulence, flesh and texture in the 2009.

Enticing dark plum colour, this is carefully extracted, emphasising the fully ripe fruits that head towards fig and blackberry, along with creme de cassis, incense and cinnamon, carefully balanced by fresher touches of sage and fennel herbs. Thoroughly enjoyable. 80% new oak for ageing.

Tasted blind. Mid crimson. Just the right side of volatile but very winning and opulent. More 2009 than Margaux. A little dry and chewy for the moment. Massive volume and finish. (JR)