2010 - Termanthia, Numanthia, Toro

The 2010 Termanthia is broody and introspective on the nose, the aromatics almost cowering following the 2009. The palate is full-bodied and robust with good weight. This is perhaps the most powerful Termanthia that I have encountered with waves of ripe dark cherries, cassis and blueberry washing over the palate, fanning out towards a dense, peppermint-tinged finish. This is a lovely wine, although to be frank, I actually find more soul in the Numanthia. Tell me, did you automatically skip directly here before perusing the rest of this report? Naughty you. But it would not surprise me, since it was this address that brought Toro global attention, and so a visit to Numanthia Termes was a priority. I only need adumbrate the history of the estate. Named after an ancient Spanish city said to have resisted Roman invasion for 20 years, Numanthia was founded by the Eguren family in 1998 in Valdefinjas. Its wines enjoyed overnight critical acclaim, including in this very publication, and it was the catalyst for other winemakers to exploit Toro and recreate their success. The source of quality was derived from an exceptional parcel that included 120-year-old un-grafted vines that had resisted phylloxera with the resilience of those ancient Spanish soldiers. A new winery was constructed in 2007, but in February 2008 it was announced that the estate had been sold to LVMH. Winemaker Marcos Eguren agreed to stay on for two more vintages before he moved on to establish his own winery close by (see “Teso la Monja”). Taking the winemaking reins, Manuel Lazueda has overseen recent vintages, and he kindly not only showed recent releases from Numanthia, but conducted a complete vertical of Termanthia from the maiden vintage. Naturally, there has been speculation how I would find these wines, which come cloaked in 200% new oak. You would presume they are an anathema to what I believe constitutes a great wine. You have to trust me when I say that I tasted without prejudice and withou

Ungrafted vines over 120 years old. Hand destemmed, rigorous sorting at the winery. Fermented in 10-hl/20-hl French oak vats. Extended maceration post-fermentation for 16 days. Malolactic in 100% new French barrels before ageing 20 months in new French barriques. Bottled July 2012.Deep in colour but some signs of development, with oak notes dominating on the nose. Confited dark fruit, warming, baked, with a cooling spice edge. Full, fleshy, soft palate, impressive in weight but I would struggle to drink many glasses of this. (AWH)